On our way to and from the coast, we passed through Tsavo East National Park. Canvas tents sheltered our weary bones and we dined by candlelight under a clear, starry sky. One morning, an elephant wandered into the camp, knocked over a palm tree, and feasted on its fronds. Cheeky monkeys scampered onto the breakfast table, swiped the ramekin of jam, and devoured it, pausing to shoot us ornery glances. We flew over bumpy washboard, slowing down to admire leggy giraffes and graceful dik-diks and slow-lumbering elephants, long-necked ostriches and wallowing hippos and lazy lionesses.

What a life.